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Dana 60 Front Axle III

(page 3)

We had a local firm, Liberty Sandblasting & Specialty Coatings, do the blasting. The parts were taped off per Jim Schiele's specifications. Once they were blasted, they sprayed the parts with primer and then we took them back to Jim Schiele to re-build the axle including the installation of the Powertrax Noslip unit. Once the axle was completed, it went back to Liberty for a final touch up of the primer and then a coat of SuperThane which is one of the most durable paints around. The final assembly was done in house.

Once we had everything back in our shop, we began the process of rebuilding the axle. We began by removing the original differential cover, so we could install the new Mag-Hytec differential cover and touch up the black urethane paint. Next, we installed the painted axles after covering them with a coat of wheel bearing grease for ease of installation and basic protection. Once the axles were in place, we found that the superthane coating was much too thick to allow the steering knuckles, stone shield and spindles to seat properly. This would leave too much play against the "v" seal. Therefore, we used a dremel tool with a grinding wheel to remove all of the coating material around the metal where the parts would meet. Once the metal was bare, we dressed them with a light coat of Zero Rust to insure a rust free axle for many miles to come. After they dried, the spindles were secured to the steering knuckles, sandwiching the brake caliper mounts and stone shields between them.

Ford Dana 60 axle housing primer
Dana 60 in primer.
Ford Dana 60 axle painted
Painted and ready to be reassembled.
Ford Dana60 axle close up
Axles, u-joints and spindles installed.
Ford Dana60 steering knuckles
Ready for spindle housings.
Ford Dana60 axle almost done
Spindle housings in place.
Ford Dana60 axle assembled
Rebuild Complete w/ Milemarker Hubs

The completed dana 60 front axle.

From here, we packed the bearings with moly grease and installed the rear bearings in the hubs. Once in place, we packed extra grease in and around them. To keep water and foreign matter out, we installed new inner seals by tapping them into the back of the hubs. Now we seated the hubs onto the spindles. Lastly, we packed the front bearings and slid them in. To keep the hubs in place, we installed the wheel bearing nuts and lock washers and tightened them to specifications.

To complete the rebuild, we installed a new set of Stainless Steel Milemarker lockout hubs to replace the worn out factory hubs. All that was left was to add oil which we did once the axle was set under the frame.